Chloe Chapin, a seasoned costume designer with over 20 years of experience, has often pondered the transition of men’s fashion from ornate to simple. In her recent publication, “Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men,” Chapin explores this transformation during a 75-year span between the 18th and 19th centuries. She links this shift to Enlightenment principles of liberty and equality that fueled the American and French revolutions. In an edited interview, Chapin discusses how the founders’ preference for plain, dark suits came to embody American republican ideals of democracy and equality.
The concept for “Suitable” originated in 2008 during a conversation with actor Daniel Radcliffe, who wore a striking midnight blue tuxedo for the Broadway play “Equus,” for which Chapin designed the costumes. Radcliffe shared the history of British royalty opting for midnight blue in formalwear. This reignited Chapin’s interest in formal attire, further fueled by her research for the opera “La Traviata,” set in the 1860s. Despite half a century of men donning black and white formalwear, these colors were absent in the 18th century, prompting Chapin to investigate this sartorial shift.
The book delves into the evolution of men’s clothing from the 18th century onward. The initial chapter, “Peacocks to Penguins,” illustrates the transition from vibrant, decorative attire to plain, uniform suits. During the 18th century, men’s attire featured a spectrum of colors and luxurious fabrics adorned with sequins, beads, and embroidery. A notable figure in this transformation was John Quincy Adams, who shifted from wearing silk suits with breeches to adopting plain trousers, reflecting a broader sartorial revolution influenced by the American Revolution’s rejection of aristocratic opulence in favor of democratic ideals.
Chapin’s research uncovered fascinating insights into the Founding Fathers’ fashion sense. Unexpectedly, the book focuses significantly on them, revealing letters from George Washington to his London tailor, expressing dissatisfaction with ill-fitting pants. This anecdote highlights the rarity of personal expressions about clothing in historical archives. Washington was mindful of his image as the first American president, deliberately choosing not to dress like royalty. The gradual adoption of plain, dark suits symbolized the nascent American democracy and equality, as exemplified by James Madison’s transformation from a dandy in 1790 to donning a black suit in his 1816 presidential portrait.
Chapin’s book concludes around the Civil War but hints at the subsequent global spread of suits, tying democracy to this attire. While suits may not be as ubiquitous today, they remain prevalent in fields with significant cultural authority like politics, law, and finance. The suit stands as a testament to the early American values of equality, industry, and modernity, designed to represent the rational, enlightened man. Its enduring influence underscores its success in embodying power in a seemingly simple form.
Original Source: news.harvard.edu
